Housebreaking: 10 Steps to Success

Housebreaking: 10 Steps to Success

Are you wondering how to potty train your puppy? Of course you are! This is top priority for all dog owners. Follow these 10 commandments for the best tips for housebreaking a puppy.

1. EXPECTATIONS & TIME

Dogs take anywhere from 6-8 weeks to housebreak in the best of circumstances. So settle in and don’t expect things to change overnight. The amount of time they can be expected to hold their potty during the day is roughly parallel to their age, and aging goes at its own pace regardless of your personal goals.

 

Daytime

 

NIGHTTIME

Dogs sleep longer at night and can often sleep through the night sooner than they can hold it during the day.

A conservative estimate of when they should start sleeping through the night is 3.5-4 months.

To encourage this – cut off water 30 minutes after dinner, feed dinner between 6-7p latest, and give your pup some extra stimulation between dinner and bedtime (instead of letting them slip into a pre-bedtime food coma).

2. TRIGGERS

 Sleeping     Eating

Drinking      Activity AND Stimulation

These are all precursors to potty.  Is your pup new to your home? Expect them to potty more often.  Did a guest just show up? Expect them to have to potty again, even if they just went out.

3. CONSISTENCY & PLANNING

Surely you have heard the phrase, Consistency is the key to success, and it is no different when training your dog.

LAYOUT & ROUTINE

You must consider the layout and routine of your potty training method and ensure everyone is managing them in the SAME EXACT WAY! For example;

  • Where is crate located?
  • Where are the potty pads laid out?
  • Where are they taken out to potty? And how are they taken out to potty (i.e., carried, on leash)?
  • What is the response for an accident? What is the response for potty in the right place?

 

PLANNING

Create a plan that is headed toward your ultimate goal. If you plan to have your pup potty outside, you may not want to start with potty pads. If you plan to have your dog walk to the back door, you may want to encourage them to walk there instead of carrying them there. This step is where a professional trainer can really come in handy, they can listen to your ultimate goal and help you create a plan with steps that will get you there in a way that doesn’t waste any time.

Make sure everyone in the house is on the same page!

4. RESTRICT & COORDINATE ACCESS

Freedom is earned with responsibility. Do not allow your pup access to the entire house right off the bat. Use baby gates and furniture to restrict access and then open up more and more over time.

Before opening up a new space, prepare your pup for eventual exposure.

You can do this by:

  1. Taking them to the new areas on leash for short stints.
  2. Following steps to make that space a safe zone such as feeding them there, playing with them there, etc.

Always supervise extra in a new area until the pup has proven they can follow the housebreaking protocol from that space. Set your pup up for success by only allowing access to any NON safe zone space when they have fully evacuated their bowels. If you take them out and they do not potty, consider placing them back into a safe zone until you can get a potty and THEN reward them with a little free time in the house. Just be sure to limit that free time relative to their age. They may have to potty again within the hour and you won’t want to miss it!

5. SUPERVISION

Absolutely no free time (unless in a safe zone – see below). The more accidents your pup has without you seeing, the longer it will take to housebreak them. They are establishing a habit.  

Whatever they practice most will stick.

6. SAFE ZONE

A safe zone is the place in the house where you can put your dog and not have to supervise them constantly. These are places where you know your dog will NOT (or is least likely to) have an accident OR where it’s okay for them to potty.

Most common safe zones, where you know your pup WILL NOT potty, are:

Crate

On Parent’s Lap

In the place they sleep

Next to a food dish

Tethered to a parent

Most common places you can leave your dog where it’s okay for them to go potty are backyard or dog run. If you do not currently have a safe zone, create one (see Crate Training). These zones will allow you to have free time and, with proper crate training, to assist in elongating the time your pup can hold it between potty breaks.

7. DANGER ZONE

A danger zone is a spot your pup is most likely to have an accident. Common danger zones are carpets, behind furniture, in rooms that are rarely used/lived in. These zones should be restricted unless there is direct supervision. You can also work on turning a danger zone into a safe zone by feeding your pup there, hanging out there, sleeping there, or interacting with them there on a regular basis with trick training, toy play, etc. 

8. PRAISE FOR THE RIGHT SPOT

Wait until the pup is completely done and then mark with a “yes!” and give a treat. Create a positive association with the “right” spot.

Don’t interrupt the potty flow or the urge may come back as soon as you go back inside.  

The goal isn’t to overexcite the pup, just to praise them for a job well done in a way that makes them more likely to do it there again. 

9. CATCH THEM IN THE ACT OR BUST

If you do not catch your pup IN THE ACT of going potty in the wrong spot you, unfortunately… Can’t. Do. ANYTHING. You must ignore it. If you get upset with them, they will not understand, and you will run the risk of worsening the housebreaking issue. Silently grumble through the clean-up and fix what you need to in your supervision plan so that this doesn’t happen again.

Mising an accident in the moment is the number one way to take steps back in your housebreaking timeline.

If you DO catch your pup IN THE ACT you can say “no, no” in a low voice (low register, but not too loud, you don’t want to scare them) and immediately take them to the correct spot and try to get them to go. Still praise and treat if they finish in the right spot.

10. HEALTH ISSUES

Health issues can delay the dog training process. Food changes, UTI, medications, etc. should all be kept in mind when setting expectations. Speak to veterinarian ASAP if you suspect a medical issue or are not sure of your pup’s medication side effects.

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How to Bond with a Scared Dog

How to Bond with a Scared Dog

If you are here, you have probably already recognized you have a dog that is insecure, fearful, scared, nervous, worried, etc. Stay tuned for our next article about How to Recognize Fear in Dogs. Part of bonding with your fearful dog is taking things at their pace. Identifying their subtle “I’m uncomfortable” body language cues will ensure you stay under threshold and reduce any steps backwards in the process.

Apart from that, there is the following:

THE APPROACH:

If your first instinct is to go, “Awwwww! Omg look at that pup! It’s soooo cute!! I just wanna grab it and hug it and squeeze its little cheeks!! Gimme Gimme Gimme!” Let’s stop right there.

The well-intentioned, dog super-fan depicted above might be you… but it is also a scared dog’s worst nightmare. In fact, any dog, regardless of confidence, should never be approached this way. Just as you would never approach a child with this much emotional intensity, you should never approach a dog that way either.

 

Dogs interpret body language through a DOG’s point of view.

 

To a dog, your affection could easily be interpreted as purely predatory:

  • Arms out = Wings out, claws out
  • Smiling face or toothy grin = Lifted lip, growl, fangs ready to eat you
  • Direct “loving” eye contact = Murderous intentions
  • Yelling, screaming “omg you’re sooo cute!” = Loud… and in nature, loud noise indicates impending danger (think ‘Battle Cry’)
  • Reaching toward the head (i.e., petting) = Going in for the kill

 

If you didn’t know this before, don’t feel bad. It’s NEVER too late! Your intentions are in the right place, so let’s get your body to meet them there. Having a good approach when meeting a scared pup is like making a really GOOD first impression and will go a long way towards building trust – do this by being as BORING as possible.

  Predictable and non-threatening body movements are key.

If you didn’t know this before, don’t feel bad. It’s NEVER too late! Your intentions are in the right place, so let’s get your body to meet them there. Having a good approach when meeting a scared pup is like making a really GOOD first impression and will go a long way towards building trust – do this by being as BORING as possible.

STEPS ON HOW TO PROPERLY APPROACH A DOG:

STEP 1: Move at a slow pace – the key is to be slow, not creepy. Hesitancy reads as fear… and fearful dogs DO NOT want to be around fearful humans. Opposites attract, so confidence is key. Try to manifest the sloth from the Zootopia DMV (Flash). Slow, but totally sure of himself.

 STEP 2: Avoid quick changes in direction – stand up slowly, even if it’s AFTER you’ve already pet the dog. Don’t risk ruining a good interaction by scaring the dog at the end. The dog will remember the LAST feeling they had when around you, not the first.

STEP 3: Avoid direct eye contact – turn your head to the side and use your peripheral.

STEP 4: DO NOT walk in a direct path toward the pup – think of a ‘Bee Line’ and do the opposite of that. Walk to the side of the dog and wait.

STEP 5: Avoid reaching out or leaning in – DO NOT close the gap between you and the dog, that’s their job. Your statue-like demeanor will give the dog the space they need to allow their natural curiosity to set in. When curiosity trumps fear, your bonding window has opened! Do not rush forward or it may snap shut again.

STEP 6: Remain small – If you are noticing more relaxed and curious body language than fearful and would like to attempt physical contact, the least obtrusive way to do so is from a seated position. For a small dog this might be sitting on the ground but for a larger dog, sitting on the ground could put your face directly in theirs. Instead try sitting on a couch or a chair.

THE TOUCH:

To keep it simple – dogs generally DO NOT like being pet on their muzzle, legs, paws, tail, or top of the head. Also, with a fearful dog, it’s best to avoid any belly rubs. Most dogs roll onto their back to communicate fear/anxiety and therefore a desire to END an interaction, NOT to invite you in for a belly rub. Generally fearful dogs are even more likely to do these “submissive rolls” and therefore are more likely to get stuck with unwanted affection in that area. On the other hand…

Dogs generally DO enjoy being pet under the chin, at the base of the tail, or on the back of the neck just above their shoulder blades.

Dogs also prefer long gentle strokes over short pats. If your dog specifically reacts well to physical affection you may want to go a step further and incorporate Massage or TTouch. Also try adding brushing into your routine. Although some dogs have already had a negative experience with grooming, some ADORE it and get the same calming benefits as with massage.

POSITIVE ASSOCIATION: 

Now that you have eliminated all the triggers in your approach and touch, you may have moved the pup’s emotional needle from SCARED to NEUTRAL. YAY! Step one accomplished.

Positive Association – linking yourself, interaction with you, or proximity to you, to something the pup already LOVES will start the process of moving that emotional needle from NEUTRAL all the way over to TRUSTING or even BONDED.

You may have already started creating this association with your petting and massage. Take it a step further with Treats, Walks and Fur-Friends!

TREATS

Treats or Food can be used as a training tool, a way to motivate your dog to perform tasks, OR just as a way of building a more trusting relationship between dog and human. If the pup is food motivated, treats can be used to change the pup’s initial emotional response to you (think about Pavlov’s dogs’ response to the bell). The trick to creating an association is consistently pairing the two items. So, whoever feeds the dog, will bond with the dog. If your scared pup is having a harder time bonding with a specific family member, have them follow all steps above (fixing their approach and touch) and then, have them take over all feeding. For less food motivated dogs, a higher value food reward may be needed to create the association. When determining the definition of “high value” for your pup, taste is in the eye of the beholder.

Most dogs value meat over veggies and fresh food over processed. Most dogs ALSO like plush toys, squeaky toys, and balls (or other toys that can be tossed and chased).

If your dog is not food motivated AT ALL orrrr if they don’t enjoy the close contact needed for treat delivery, toys may be the way to their heart. Not sure what they like? Get one of everything!  If they don’t play the first time you try, try again each week. In some circumstances, play can build trust, but in some cases the dog will need to have established trust before they will be relaxed enough to play in front of you.

WALKS

Now, let’s take a walk!! Pups love to go on walks because their genetic make-up demands that they exercise and find sources of mental stimulation. One of the best stimulation sources is SMELLING. Many dogs will gain confidence from the act of scent tracking itself (as they find what they were tracking, they gain confidence in themselves for achieving a goal) but more than that, walks with YOU specifically can work wonders on a bond. As your pup encounters new experiences outside the home, they will be vulnerable. Having you there to lead them will remind them that you are capable of taking care of them. This repeated experience over a matter of weeks or months will add up to an overall feeling of trust.

FUR-FRIENDS

If the walk itself is not doing the trick, consider making it a Pack Walk. Your dog may not like you yet, but do you know any other dogs that do?! Again, we are trying to use positive association to convince your dog that you are THE bringer of all things awesome. But if they won’t take your word for it, find someone (a dog) to speak on your behalf. Since dogs speak dog, better than human, they may be more easily convinced by a fellow fur-friend. Let your scaredy dog witness you positively interacting with the friend. Let them experience the friend’s confidence around you. Who knows, your scared pup could look up and say “hey, maybe this human isn’t so bad after all?”

WARNING: Please keep your dog’s SPECIFIC insecurities in mind. If your pup is afraid of traffic or the leash, the walks may not be for them. If they have grooming or handling trauma, brushing or massage may not be for them. If they do not like other dogs, it won’t matter that other dogs like you. And regardless of who they are, you will still want to use proper approach protocol (listed above) when delivering any treats – ex: no leaning in or over.

OBEDIENCE: 

Think of the people you trust the most.  What do they bring to the table… Reliability? Good Nature? Dependability? Consistency? Participation in your goals? Dogs are looking for those same qualities in you.

Like a walk, Obedience Training can have the same effect in building trust between dog and owner – as you partner up with them to figure out an obedience game or task, you will prove to them your value as a partner overall. You will provide a firm foundation by stating your expectations clearly, you will consistently reward what you want and not what you don’t want, you will celebrate the small victories and always end on a positive note.

These aren’t just the keys to a good training methodology, they are the keys to a good relationship.

In addition to strengthening your bond, obedience training will occupy the dogs monkey mind, distracting them from their anxiety and will relieve them of excess energy. A properly exercised dog is generally more emotionally pliable and therefore, easier to bond with.

TIME & SPACE: 

As you’ve read, there is a lot you can DO to promote a bond with your scared dog, BUT there is also a huge benefit to doing NOTHING AT ALL. Not all fearful pups are ready to jump into jobs, games and obedience training. Sometimes they just need a little bit of quiet time or to be ignored completely.

Give them space, let them come to you.

It’s nearly impossible to put yourself into the mind of what your scared pup is thinking, but with these tips and a little bit of time will help them create a lasting bond one step at a time.

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Tail Docking and Ear Cropping (Opinion Piece)

Tail Docking and Ear Cropping
(Opinion Piece)

Tail Docking and Ear Cropping:

I had the most interesting conversation the other day with Tammy Ahn from Dog Days San Diego and Ruby Balaram from Real Dog Box.  We talked about Tail docking and Ear Cropping.  This article isn’t going to be a How To or even to truly educate you on the history of these practices.  I’ll just be summarizing my thoughts on it and some things I learned.  Let me also say, that I don’t know enough about this subject to be considered anywhere NEAR an expert and therefore don’t have the education to judge anyone else on their choices.  These are just my thoughts, not my declarations.  

 

I am a believer in leaving things as nature intended OR at least, not making physical alterations to beings that have no say in the matter and without any medical justification for the change.  For example, after doing a shit load of research, I decided NOT to circumcise my son. I made this choice because there seemed to be no reasonable medical reason for circumcision and therefore it felt wrong for me to make a purely cosmetic and irreversible choice for my son before he had a chance to weigh in on it.  I do recognize that Tail Docking and Ear Cropping are NOT the same as circumcision and that dogs are NOT people, but my feelings about this practice stemmed from my experience making that choice for my son, so I thought it an easy place to start and to give you a window into where my head was at.

 

My initial belief was this: If there is no safety concern with maintaining a dog’s natural ears and tail, then they shouldn’t be cut.   

 

Issue #1 The Ability to Safely Perform A Job

 I fully acknowledge that there are major risks to maintaining floppy appendages in many of the jobs that dogs are bred to do.  For example, if you are bred to protect a property where you may need to fight another animal or human to do so, you can’t have extra handles sticking out all over the place for the enemy to grab onto.  In that case, it seems the risk to maintaining these appendages outweighs the discomfort the dog experiences removing them.    

 

Issue #2 The Human God Complex 

BUT if a dog can’t do his job right WITH a long tail and floppy ears, then aren’t we not done with the process yet? Like, where is the line when we are creating/breeding a living being to be used as a tool? Was it ok for us to say “I did it!  I made the perfect guardian! I mean, these ears and tail are gonna be a problem so I’ll have to cut those off myself but everything else is PERFECTO!”?  If it wasn’t possible to maintain the behaviors and instincts we needed while selecting out the floppy ears and tail, then at what point should we have just accepted we in fact COULDN’T breed the perfect guardian and stopped trying?

 

And what about the bulldog?! UGH! In this case we DID create a dog perfect for a job.  Then somewhere along the line we gave in to aesthetics,  tweaking it and messing with it until we created a being that can’t be born naturally, that can’t breathe, that gets constant skin infections and requires regular spinal adjustments to live pain free.  Where is the line when it comes to abandoning the selection process and just chopping the rest of the way there? Why is it ok to intervene to birth a bulldog but not ok to intervene with a different breed’s ears/tail to prepare it for its job? 

 

Issue #3 The Greater Good 

Every argument here seems to bring up ANOTHER point.  In this one we talk about the jobs themselves.  There are some jobs that humans needed dogs for in the beginning because we had no other way to accomplish them efficiently.  Now, with advancements in technology, there are some jobs that I hesitate to feel are important enough to warrant the physical alteration of a dog specifically so it can succeed at that task.  HOWEVER, there are other jobs that dogs still do for us that SAVE ACTUAL HUMAN LIVES. When tails and ears are cropped and docked CORRECTLY and at the appropriate time, there is VERY little discomfort to the animal and absolutely no long term negative effects.  With that in mind it seems like a no brainer:  The reward outweighs the risks.  

 

Issue #4 Public Perception of the Breed

Now, what I am still trying to understand is what is the reasoning behind cropping/docking a working dog that is NOT going to be working in the field AT ALL. But if you really think about that…there is a problem with the question, isn’t there?  Namely, WHY ARE YOU GETTING A WORKING BREED THAT ISN’T GOING TO BE WORKING?! This dog was CREATED to do this particular job, and to do this job well, it’s safest for them to have a short tail.  IF we start saying it’s ok not to dock the tail, then are we also saying it’s ok for them not to have access to the job they were bred to do?  That it’s ok to purchase a weimaraner as a companion for your elderly parents? Or to try to fit any breed you want into YOUR life – purchasing a bulldog for a hiking partner or a cattle dog to downstay at the kids soccer game or a working line malinois as a service animal.  I get there could be exceptions in all these breeds but in general NO!  That’s NOT OK! And if docking the tails and cropping the ears reminds people that these dogs have specific characteristics that need to be taken seriously and needs that MUST be met, then so be it. (and yes… I know that only one of the examples I used actually gets docked lolol but you get the point!).  

 

Issue #5 Breeding Standards

Now…ON THE OTHER HAND (haha do y’all have whiplash yet?) what if you are a responsible owner in search of the perfect dog.  Maybe you fell in love with the Viszla and did all the necessary research.  You fully comprehend their mental and physical stimulation needs and are committed to and capable of meeting them in a variety of ways However, and this is important, you do NOT plan on hunting with them.  You seek out a reputable breeder that specializes in breeding for temperament over stamina and you pick out the calmest pup from the litter.  Here is the question – Should this person be denied a dog because they will not be hunting?? And come to think of it, should this breeders reputation be lowered because they are focusing on temperament instead of overwork ethic? Or is it ok to attempt to make a breed more accessible to the public and allow the purchase of these dogs into suburban households so more people can share in the love? AAAAA! I dont knoooowwww!!! What I do know is this.  Even though some reputable breeders are selecting for softer versions (companion-washing as sommmme might say), they STILL dock all the tails REGARDLESS of the intended use expressed by the purchaser.  You will NOT have the option to abstain.  The reason they give? “Maintaining breed standards”  So let me make sure I have this right.  Its ok to breed a working dog for temperament in order to help it survive in a home that will not be using the dog for the work it was designed for… but its not ok to leave the tail intact??? On the official list of “standards” I can’t imagine the ability to perform the job well falls below tail docked on the list of importance.  Right?? How did tail docking become the thing that separates a reputable breeder from a non reputable one? This.  Makes.  No.  Sense to me.  

Let me be clear that I am not calling out the breeders, I’m calling out the standards.  One of the (MANY) things I learned in my chat with Tammy and Ruby is that any reputable breeder will be trying to maintain breed standards.  Those standards include docking.  SO if you seek out a breeder that is willing NOT to dock, you probably aren’t talking to as reputable a breeder as you thought.  You may be headed down a scary path… that leads to the backyard….IF ya know what I’m saying… This definitely puts the purchasers in a difficult position. They can either make a stance against unnecessary docking, or they can get a well bred dog.  Additionally, there is a concern out there that BECAUSE the standards still dictate the tail should be docked, if the breeders stop doing it or if the practice is stigmatized before the desire for the dock decreases, the owners will start doing themselves!!! I am not going to get into the horrors of the at-home crop/dock.  Suffice it to say, while a veterinary crop/dock ISNT torture… an at-home one could be.  

 

I’ll end this long ass section by saying I have also been told things are changing pretty quickly in Europe where docking and cropping has been outlawed.  Europe still manages to produce some incredible breeders and cares just as much about maintaining the essence of the breeds.  I’m not sure how I feel about the practice being outlawed, but I do wish the owner of the dog had a choice.  

 

CONCLUSION

Revisiting the original belief ( If there is no safety concern with maintaining a dog’s natural ears and tail, then they shouldn’t be cut ) my feelings have pretty much stayed the same.  I am ecstatic to be coming from a place of education now but when it comes down to it, I still believe if a working dog is NOT performing their job in the most raw way, and are instead acting mostly as a companion, I can see no reason for the discomfort of removal, no matter how small that discomfort is. The main thing I learned is that the problem isn’t that simple.   The reality is, if you choose to go with a purebred dog, you may be faced with a choice between purchasing from a reputable breeder and leaving the appendages intact.  What would I do??…shit.  (Im sitting here with my head in my hands in the middle of Covid19 because that choice is so difficult).  I guess I’d have to rethink my breed choice and wait for the standards to catch up to the times.  But thats me.  

 

Thanks for reading!

*This article was written by Pack Method Prep’s Owner, Zoe Sandor.
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Should you send your dog to school?

Should you send your dog to school?

 

 

Should you send your dog to school?

Thinking about getting a dog? Start here!

Our owner Zoe Sandor – certified professional dog trainer and co-star on Animal Planet’s “Cat vs. Dog!” joined Tim Berthold on Thriving Dog Pawcast to answer all your dog training questions such as:
When should I start training?
What about my rescue?
Does my dog have to go to obedience school? 

She gives plenty of tips on:

  • Training puppies
  • 4 life stages of dogs
  • Risks vs. benefits of socializing your dog
  • Fun tricks
  • [1:44] How Zoe got into dog training
  • [6:32] Getting certified as a dog trainer
  • [11:01] Your dog’s 4 life stages
  • [15:45] Do’s and don’ts with new puppies
  • [21:04] How your adult dog mentors your puppy
  • [25:42] What you should know about your dog’s adolescent stage
  • [34:53] What your TRAINED dog can do
  • [37:19] Pet parent homework
  • [40:09] How to know if your dog is in secondary FIERCE stage
  • [52:43] Tips for rescues

CLICK HERE TO LISTEN

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All About Crate Training

All About Crate Training

Crate training is one of the most important skills you can teach your dog.

Even if you don’t plan on using a crate regularly IN your home, you SHOULD crate train your dog if you ever plan on leaving the home. 

The Top 7 Reasons to Crate Train Your Dog

1. Vet/Groomer

The vet and the groomer may have to use a crate whether you or your pup likes it or not. If you haven’t created a positive association with the crate in advance, then you are setting your pup up to have an even more harrowing time at the vet/groomer during a time when they may already be feeling scared or sick.

2. Travel

The safest way to travel is in a crate. A crated dog is less likely to get injured in a car accident and will be less likely to be catapulted from the vehicle in a collision. If you are traveling a long distance and need to fly, your pup may be required to travel in a crate, either under the seat in front of you, or under the plane completely, with the luggage.

3. Daycare

Crates are used at almost every daycare, even ones labeled “cage free.” They may be used for feeding, for rest periods, or, in the case of a boarding facility, to sleep in overnight.

4. Housebreaking

Crate training can be instrumental in housebreaking. Dogs generally don’t like to potty in their personal space. Containing them in a crate in between outings can help them learn to hold and to direct their potty to a specific spot outside their living space. See our article the 10 Commandments of Housebreaking.

5. Comfort

If you’ve successfully crate trained your dog, the crate will be a safe place that produces feelings of peace, like your bedroom when you were a kid. They can use it to take breaks when they need alone time (like from the new puppy or the newly walking baby). In addition, this created comfort zone becomes a security blanket to your dog that they can take with them anywhere. No matter how things change in their environment (like when traveling or during a move), they will have the crate to bring a sense of normalcy to the chaos.

6. Safety

It is normal for a pup to have periods of destructiveness as they navigate through their puppyhood. Not only can this be dangerous for your home, but it can also be dangerous to THEM if they get a hold of something specifically toxic or physically harmful. Crate training is a great way to put your mind at ease when you have to leave your pup home alone. You know your dog is safe… and so is your stuff.

7. Confidence

Being comfortable with containment and alone time requires a certain amount of inner confidence and trust in your decision making. Taking your dog through the crate training process, ESPECIALLY if they have some initial reservations, will increase their confidence when coming up against challenges in general, making it easier to navigate life overall.  

How to get started with Crate Training Your Dog

If you already know that crate training is AWESOME, don’t forget how important it is that YOU are the one to introduce the crate to your dog FIRST and that you do so in a way that promotes a positive association. If their first or only experience with a crate is at the vet when they are sick, in the bottom of a scary plane, or their first night in a new boarding facility, your pup can develop a negative association with being in a crate, making it harder when you try to crate them at home. Follow these steps to start off on the right foot:

CHOOSE A CRATE

There are many different types: metal, plastic, fabric, and wire. Make sure you choose the appropriate size for your dog. When you purchase a crate, they will usually give a height and weight guideline. As a general rule, the crate should be big enough that your dog can fully stand up, turn around, and lay down.  If you are using the crate to housebreak it shouldn’t be much bigger than that guideline. If they can potty in one side and sleep in the other, it won’t be much help to you. 

INTRODUCE THE CRATE

This is the start of your pup’s positive experience with the crate.

You should never force your dog into the crate.

There are 4 aspects to consider when introducing your pup to the crate.

1. PLACEMENT – Place the crate in an area of the home where your dog already likes to spend time. Just having a new object in your home may spook your dog! So, allow your dog to investigate at their own pace and give them time to acclimate. 

2. FREEDOM – Allow your pup to enter and exit freely. This will keep you from accidentally triggering any Containment Anxiety. 

Leave the crate door open (tie it open if you need to). 

3. COMFORT – If your pup enjoys snuggling with blankets or a bed, place them in the crate for increased coziness. Maybe add their favorite toy.

4. CAPTURE CONFIDENCE – Keep an eye on your pup and reward them for sniffing the crate, investigating it, or even venturing inside.

5. TREATS – Let your dog WATCH you toss treats in the crate. Allow them to go in, get the treat and come back out. After a number of repetitions, you should dispel any fears your pup has that the crate will suddenly trap them.

As a bonus – turn the crate into a Magical Never-Ending Fountain of Treats. 

When your dog is not paying attention, toss treats in the crate and/or hide them among the blankets.  That way anytime your dog happens to check, they will be surprised with a new bounty! 

6. INCREASE TIME INSIDE – We still are NOT closing the crate door BUT…

You can encourage your pup to stay in the crate longer by giving them something to do in there that takes longer to finish.

Begin feeding meals in the crate.  Place the bowl in the back of the crate (assuming your pup is already entering willingly). If they are not very motivated for their regular food… consider changing their diet to a fresh food diet… but in the meantime, give something that may be considered more high value like a chew or stuffed Kongs (always monitor your pup when they chew to make sure they don’t choke).  

Next Crate Training Steps

PUT IT ON COMMAND

Dogs love tasks. If you use “Crate” as a job your pup has to do to earn a goodie, they may start offering the behavior on their own!

Here’s how:

  • Use the command “Crate.”
  • Lure your pup into the crate with a treat in your hand.
  • Mark with a “Yes!” when they fully enter the crate (all four feet!) and then give the treat to your pup!
  • Release them immediately with your chosen release word (“OK!”, “Dismissed”, “Free”)
  • Increase the duration of the command – the amount of time they remain in the crate before you release them. Instead of one treat, give three in succession before saying “Dismissed.”
  • BONUS if they remain in the crate while you take one step away (remember you CAN NOT close the door, they have to remain in their willingly!)

CLOSE THE CRATE DOOR

This is a step all on its own for a reason. Closing the door turns the crate from a cave into a containment area. This step is where many dogs will get stuck if we don’t do the work to solidify that positive association.    

  • Send your pup into the crate and as usual, reward them for going in.
  • Close the door and immediately give a treat!
  • Open the crate door and dismiss your dog. Do not give a treat on the dismissal. At this stage we want all the goodies to appear while your pup is IN the crate with the door CLOSED.  
  • Increase the duration of the command – the amount of time they remain in the crate WITH THE DOOR CLOSED before you release them. Instead of one treat, give three in succession before opening the door and saying “Dismissed.”  
  • Increase duration further with meals and/or chews but make sure you open the door and release them from the crate BEFORE they ask to be let out. Better to end the practice session on a high than on a low.  

LEAVE 

The final step, and often most difficult, is leaving your pup alone in the crate. If you have never been out of your pup’s view before, start with Separation Training in general before you incorporate the crate. To teach them to be alone IN the crate, start with walking away but staying in view. Work up to disappearing completely but disappear into another room before you try leaving the house altogether.

Here’s how:

SET UP:

Make sure your pup has been exercised and taken potty.  This will help them feel at ease and decrease the likelihood of crate complaints.

STEPS:

  1. Send your pup to their crate.
  2. Give a treat (or kong or meal) and immediately walk a few steps away with your back turned.
  3. Return and release your pup.
  4. Repeat.

ADVANCEMENTS:

  • Gradually increase the length of time your pup has to remain in the crate before you release them. You can come back to them multiple times to toss another treat in the crate and then walk away again without letting them out. Their demeanor should be the same as if they were performing the Stay command. Calm. ALWAYS release them before they show any signs that they are nervous or anxious. Shorter successful sessions are better than longer scary ones.  
  • Repeat the previous step BUT incorporate walking all the way out of sight (for a few seconds to begin with). Gradually increase the length of time you remain out of the room in between tossed treats. Start with 10 seconds and work slowly up to a few hours! If you can achieve an hour, consider incorporating this hour session into your day EVERY day! Maybe it’s the time you get some uninterrupted work done, or do a home workout, or clean the house without a little shadow nipping at your heels.  
  • Work up to leaving the house completely. Always returning often in the beginning and work the duration up slowly. Are you walking outside to check the weather? Crate the pup! Are you grabbing the mail? Crate the pup! Are you rehoming a spider you caught inside? Crate the pup! These mini sessions will convince your pup that most often when you leave, it will only be for a very short time.  

Whatever you do, don’t leave your dog in a crate for more than 4-5 hours. They will most likely need to potty and stretch.

Troubleshooting

BARKING & WHINING

It’s common for pups in training to bark or whine the first time you close the door, walk away from the crate, or leave the room, EVEN if you have provided them with a long-lasting food item. Some barking and whining is completely normal and can be addressed easily. Assuming you have already pottied and exercised them, first try ignoring them. Some dogs might bark or whine for a few seconds or even minutes before settling down. Second, try creating a cozy, den like environment by covering the crate with a blanket. This can produce a calming effect and help block out other sights that may be triggering the barking. If these don’t work, revisit our article on separation training or consider halting your training until a trainer can assist you.

ANXIETY WARNING

If your dog is showing signs of fear or anxiety or having an intense, negative reaction at any point in the training process, stop what you are doing right away. You could unintentionally worsen your dog’s anxiety and setback your crate training if you proceed. This could be containment anxiety or separation anxiety; in which case you should consult a professional behaviorist for assistance. 

 

Conclusion

Crate training is an essential part of training your new puppy but can also bring peace to an older dog in need through structure and consistency. For some, crate training can be a long process but it’s worth it, so be patient and practice every day!

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Meat Trade Dogs

Meat Trade Dogs

Pack Method Prep and its sister company Zoe’s Dog Training have been helping rehabilitate rescue dogs since 2009. The following information is what we have gathered through our focused work with rescued “Meat Trade Dogs” over the last 3 years. We do not claim to be experts but we have noticed some similarities between cases and hope our knowledge can be your gain.

 

What is a Meat Trade Dog (MTD)?

If you do not know what the Dog Meat Trade is, there are many organizations that can educate you better than I can.  To start, here are a few links:

What Is The Difference Between a “Soi Dog” and a “Meat Trade” Dog? 

 The word “Soi” translates to “Street”. A Soi Dog is a dog that was living on the street and was in many cases feral before being rescued. Many of the Meat Trade Dogs are indeed Soi Dogs, but not all Meat Trade Dogs came from the street

Where Do Meat Trade Dogs Come From?

 As stated above, some MTDs are Soi Dogs and came from the street. However, capturing ferals is unfortunately not the only way the Trade gets their canines.    

You may never know your dog’s complete history, but there are some personality traits common to each origination category that can help you identify which dog you most likely have. These are the MTD origination categories as we know them: 

STREET DOG

Also known as a “Soi Dog”, was most likely feral before being captured into the trade.

Street Dogs constitute the majority of the Trade. They are usually relatively dog savvy. They understand dog body language well, having lived with the street packs their whole life. Unless they come to you with visible scars, they will probably be dog friendly or at least dog tolerant. On the other hand, depending on whether they were born on the street (feral) or just lived there for a long time, they will have a relatively high to severe suspicion/fear of humans. 

PRE-OWNED

Is a dog that was originally in a home but either escaped to the street or was stolen before being taken into the trade.

Pre Owned dogs may also be dog friendly, but they are identifiable by being visibly more trusting of humans. These dogs will most likely take less time to bond with a new owner and therefore less time to rehabilitate.

BORN IN

Is a dog that was most likely born within the trade.

Born In dogs will have the most physical trauma from spending so long in a cage, such as a deformed body structure with splayed feet, curved spine, atrophied muscles, etc. Because of their lack of any experiences outside the trade, they can be the most antisocial upon rescue making them the hardest to reach emotionally and, as a result, the longest to rehabilitate.

ALL MEAT TRADE DOGS

Although there are some significant differences, we have also found that there are some truths across the board. Check out the next section,“Is Adopting/Fostering a Meat Trade Dog Right for Me,” for a list of common MTD Traits. 

Is Adopting/Fostering a Meat Trade Dog Right for Me?

These dogs need your help! There are too many dogs in need and not enough homes. However, if you are going to dive into Meat Trade rehab, it’s important your expectations of the dog are based in reality. If you are a first-time dog owner and you have been dreaming of your bouncy canine kid playing fetch with you at the dog park, hanging out with you at the local pub for yappy hour, and getting love from all your friends on game day… these are not the rescues for you. This is not to say that some MTDs aren’t capable of getting to this, especially if they were Pre Owned, but it is VERY unlikely.   

 If, however, you can identify with a being that has undergone a trauma, if you are open to moving at their pace with optimistic goals based on what the dog finds rewarding (not what you think the dog SHOULD find rewarding), and if you find joy in small successes and love in the slow burn of trust building over time… then you are in the right place! 

More than anything, MTDs need stability, patience, and to be loved for who they are, not who you want them to be.

If you still aren’t sure if adopting an MTD is right for you, or if you are just a bright bulb and want to be prepared, here are some aspects of MTDs that differentiate them the most from any ol’ rescue. No matter where your MTD originated from, it is likely they will be afraid of children, fear the leash, and prefer the outdoors. Additionally, in the first few months at least, you will see the following:

  • Shut Down — As stated above, dogs have the ability to squelch their individual wants and needs when they are trying to survive. The longer the dog was in the trade, the more likely it is that their voice was silenced because of it being unsafe for them to emote. A shut down dog will often be prematurely diagnosed as “calm”, “tolerant”, and “nice”, but it is crucial they are allowed a period of time to decompress before they are evaluated with any real accuracy. We have found it can take close to 3 months for the most traumatized dog to become a dog with “personality”. It can take a year for them to be truly confident.  
  • Potentially Racist and Sexist — MTDs will be shy or even terrified around humans but can be especially sensitive to men and people that look like their previous captors. If adopted by a male/female couple, the dog will often choose to bond with the female, and if they can get what they need from this relationship, they may never have the necessary motivation to bond with the male. 
  • Won’t Play — Playing requires a great deal of ease. These dogs have had months or years of high stress each and every minute. It is rare to find a MTD that is happy go lucky enough to play in the first 3 to 6 months if at all. 
  • Won’t Come/No Recall — This one should be obvious. They are afraid of you! They will not come to you until they are bonded, and this can take months. It is for this reason they are at a VERY HIGH RISK of bolting. It is imperative that they are kept in an enclosed property or on a leash with a secure collar WITH A TAG at all times. If they get away from you in the first few weeks they will be very difficult to catch.  
  • Weird with Food — All MTDs will be hesitant around food and seem to have low food motivation. They may be especially reticent of dog food/kibble and prefer human food/junk food. The more extreme the trauma is, the more likely it is that they will refuse to eat completely except at night when all the humans are asleep and the house is completely quiet. As you can imagine, this low food drive makes it that much harder to form a bond.  

Still not sure if you are ready to adopt/foster an MTD? Scroll down to read some MTC rehabilitation success stories! Transformation IS possible, and when it happens, it has been described as the most rewarding rehabilitation experience in a rescuers’ life.  

 

I Just Adopted a Meat Trade Dog, What Do I Do Now??

Ok! So you adopted a MTD. Before you start, rehab can be helpful to identify where your rescue is on the trauma spectrum. Below we have included some examples of behaviors that tend to coincide with different trauma levels. On a scale of 1-5 is your dog…

 

LEVEL 1 – Shy but Moldable

Some sound sensitivity, human friendly but sensitive to direct approaches, will eat at any time of day but may still find kibble foreign, shy around male humans, bonds quickly to one member of the family, biddable and motivated to work for food and affection, more comfortable outside, sensitive to changes in flooring or foreign objects like cardboard boxes, fireplace, plastic bags, etc. Our guess would be this dog was Pre Owned before getting captured. 

 

LEVEL 3 – Emotional and Scared

Most of Level 1 quirks will still apply with some added challenges such as visible signs of fear or aggression (lunging, growling, snapping, biting, tongue flicks, trembling, anxiety-panting, etc.), very sensitive to loud sounds, may only eat at night when it’s quiet (3 a.m. seems to be the time they all choose), unfamiliar with the leash and afraid of any leash restriction (may bite at leash or even become reactive towards dogs when on leash), and may have flat teeth that presumably were filed down from chewing on a crate for prolonged periods. 

 

LEVEL 5 – Practically Catatonic

All the same fears as Level 1 and Level 3, but none of the same outward signs since they’re completely shut down in this level. Additional signs are they refuse food for more than 48 hours, don’t urinate or defecate for more than 48 hours, sit and stare at a corner, cower and widen eyes when approached but won’t react in a way that brings them any more attention, avoid human contact at all costs, prefer to pee outside but will do so quickly to avoid uncomfortable sights and sounds, may not pull on/seem fine with the leash since they will avoid leash pressure out of fear, may have the physical deformities common in Born Ins. 

 

Rehabilitating a Meat Trade Dog

Which level of trauma you have helps determine how long you need to spend in each stage of rehab. When you think you’re ready to move to the next step, spend two more weeks in that moment of success. Speed is not the name of this game. The extra time will often be just what was needed to solidify your trustworthiness in the dogs mind. 

 

STAGE 1 – Decompression

All MTDs require a period of decompression. How long you have to stay here depends a lot on how traumatized your dog is. The more shut down, the longer this will take, but you should plan on spending at least 3 to 4 weeks here with a Level 1 dog and maybe 2 to 3 months with a Level 5 dog. Here is what you do during this time:

  • Ignore Your Dog – I know. This sounds crazy. Most of you will want to shower your pup with affection to make up for all the affection they didn’t get in their past. DON’T. MTDs have spent weeks/months having interactions they didn’t choose for themselves. If you want to build trust, it is crucial your MTD believes fully that you are not just another person forcing your will on them and that you are not a threat. Don’t look at them, don’t call them, and don’t approach them if you can avoid it. Limit your interaction to what is absolutely necessary, and GIVE THEM SPACE to decompress.
  • Leave Them Leashed – Since some MTDs will have a sensitivity to leash pressure and human proximity, you don’t want to have to approach and reach over them constantly to leash and unleash them.  Let them drag a 6 to 8-foot leash around (assuming you’re home to supervise). This will give you some security in case you need to grab them for safety reasons and will allow them to begin to desensitize to the leash itself. 

 

 

If you are wondering if your dog is ready to move out of this stage, look for these key signals:

  • Your dog willingly approaches you for anything at all (curiosity, food, affection, etc.).
  • Your dog eats during daylight hours.
  • Your dog is vocalizing complaints.

STAGE 2 – Bonding

After the decompression stage, you will want to start forming a bond with your dog. Depending on their level of trauma, this could be harder. A Pre Owned dog will have had experience with human bonding before, whereas a Born In has never had a positive experience with a human before. 

  • Don’t Pet Your Dog – This may go against your first instinct, but DO NOT pet your dog. Even if you see it as a sign of affection, MTDs may see it as a sign of aggression and won’t understand your intentions. It may take a while, but wait until your dog is asking to be pet. If they approach you first wanting to be pet, then you may. But even then, make sure it’s on the side of their face or body or their back. These are non-threatening locations to your dog.
  • Hand Feeding/Treat Trail – In order to build an initial bond with your dog, you can use treats. There are two ways to do this: hand feeding and a treat trail. With hand feeding, you can offer them a treat from a short distance away from your hand. If they approach you, it can help build a bond. If they don’t approach you, that’s okay. They aren’t ready for that. You can also create a treat trail by lining up treats in a formation for them.

STAGE 3 – Obedience

Once decompression is done and a bond has formed, you’re able to take the next step with your dog. When expectations are off, you can start with the third stage: obedience.

  • Positive Reinforcement Only – MTDs have a sensitivity with human authority, so you want to make sure to make them as comfortable as possible while teaching them obedience. To give positive reinforcement means to reward behaviors that are good, and ignore the behaviors that are not. You never want to punish your dog in any way, shape or form. Positive reinforcement can come in many different ways: treats, praise, walks, etc. 
  • Desensitization and Counterconditioning – Desensitization means exposing your dog to a stimulus beginning at a very low intensity. Counterconditioning is to train your dog to reach differently to such stimulus. In order to be effective, desensitization and counterconditioning MUST be used together. To begin this process, you must take it very slowly. Determine what is stressing out your dog, and devise a way to make this less stressful. You may even find you can pair it with something your dog finds positive. Don’t move on from this process until your dog is fully comfortable. Remember: This is a slow process. Treat it as such.

STAGE 4 – Happiness 

So you’ve decompressed your MTD, you’ve formed a bond, and you taught them obedience. The final stage of rehabilitating your dog is happiness. Determine what makes them happy. Is it jogging? Car rides? Other dogs? Once you determine this, you can introduce it into their day to day. 

Beware when it comes to dog socialization; sometimes it can be necessary for an MTD, but other times it’s bad for their state. You may need another confident dog in the home to help with this transition.

 

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